Today’s lesson boys and girls will be on the many aspects of taking and eating that most popular of wild game, venison. I am told that once upon a time the term venison referred to most all wild game, for some reason we now generally only use this term for deer. Here in the east we have the white tailed deer, Odocoileus virginianus, I like to throw in the scientific names of animals occasionally, and no, I can’t pronounce it either.
The white tailed deer is by far our most widespread and sought after game animal. They are found over much of North America, down into Mexico, and into Canada with some of the largest deer occurring there in those cold climes. They have also been transplanted, believe it or not over much of the world including New Zealand, parts of Europe, and Cuba and Jamaica. The white tailed deer puts more hunters in the woods, sells more hunting licenses and guns and hunting gear probably than all other game animals combined. It is estimated that hunters in the US kill over six million deer a year, that is a lot of venison.
Those of you who deer hunt a lot and eat a lot of venison know how to take care of the game in the field and how to prepare it at home. I know, I have been to some of your wild game feeds and am always pestering those with a delectable venison dish for the recipe and how to prepare it. Most people who say they don’t like venison or really any wild game almost always say the same thing. “I don’t like that ol’ wild, gamey taste!” Hunters, especially deer hunters, have heard this phase for years. As most deer hunters are men, they do what most men do when they hear something that they (A) don’t understand or (B) don’t want to hear. And what is that ladies? That’s right, they ignore it!
You can see how this becomes an endless cycle. If a hunter is doing something wrong or not doing something to best prepare his game animals for the table they need to fix that. Not taking the time to properly process and care for your deer leads to the result of Case’s Outdoor Theorem #17, which says a lot, and I mean a lot of venison taken every year eventually winds up in the dumpster.
I claim no great expertise in the cooking department, but I have been around several people that know how to dress and take care of deer in the field. Here are some pointers that will help you deliver good venison to the table.
Many hunters know that a plump young doe deer is a better deer to eat than a battle worn buck with big antlers and a gray nose. Most states have a rifle season in the fall during the rut; and most of us want to take a big buck with large antlers. There is nothing wrong with this but if you want a deer for eating a young animal is always best. Many states have liberal antlerless (doe) seasons. Don’t get me wrong on this; bucks are perfectly edible; you just need to take the time to process what are usually tougher cuts of meat. Deer that are shot and drop almost instantly are also a better bet for the table. An injured animal that runs a long way has more time to stress and build up adrenaline and lactic acid in the muscles; this will affect the quality of the meat. Aside from the humane aspect, this is another reason we should practice our shooting, we need to be confident in making clean one shot kills.
Nobody likes to field dress, that is remove the guts from a deer. No one wants to do this, but like dying and paying taxes it has to be done. The best practice is this; if possible remove the entrails from the deer immediately after it falls and start cooling the meat. In warm weather (40 degrees and up) get the hide off the deer, quarter it and get the meat on ice as quick as you can.
Do not make the classic mistake many hunters make when they down a large buck. Often the deer is loaded on the truck and is then taken on tour, driving to every camp and buddy in the area too show off the deer. This can go on for hours. Don’t do it, dress and process the deer properly, take pictures and brag on Facebook later if you want.
Age that deer for best results. Any good steak that you have ever eaten had been aged, probably for a lengthy period. If you have access to a walk in cooler, you are very fortunate, use it. The temperature needs to be above freezing but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, 38 may be about right. I believe that you can age deer quarters in a cooler on ice, some do not agree with this. The cooler needs to sit in a cool place on a slight incline with the drain plug removed so the water can drain. Stick a thermometer in there to watch the temp. Hanging the meat in the proper temperature will make for better venison; about seven days should be enough.
Trim your venison and then trim it again. Trim everything off your deer meat that you don’t want to eat, all the connective tissue, fat and sinew. That “silver skin” which is connective tissue has to come off. It is a lot of work and tedious but the result is worth it. You should end up with only good cuts of red meat.
The cooking is as important as the processing. I told you before that I am no great chef. The Greenbrier Resort is not pounding on my door to come work in their kitchen. I do know however that following a few simple rules with venison will give you better results. 1. Don’t overcook venison, ever. 2. To grill venison such as a back strap (what some call the tenderloin), get your grill hot and place the meat directly on the grill and sear it about four minutes on each side. The searing is important, this is how you keep the juices on the inside. You can finish the venison on the grill but you may want to put it in the oven and bring it to how done you want it to be there. Some do not like really rare meat, but rare is better than well done here. Tougher cuts of venison can be made very tasty by first searing in a hot pan, remove the meat and with the pan drippings and make a heavy gravy by adding some flour, a beef or chicken stock and your favorite seasonings. Put the meat back into the pan and cook slowly, on top of the stove or in the oven.
Bon Appétit! (Whatever that means)
Larry Case